Choosing the right olive oil: origins, cold pressing, and tips for enjoying it at its best

Standing before a shelf of olive oils, questions quickly arise: should you choose a French or Italian oil? What does "extra virgin" mean? Is first cold pressing really a guarantee of quality? And can you use a good olive oil for cooking? Rest assured: you don't need to be an expert to make a good choice. A few guidelines are enough to find an oil you like and know how to use it every day.

France or Italy: two countries, a wide diversity of tastes

Italy is often associated with an intense oil and France with a milder oil. The reality is much more varied.

The taste depends first on the olive variety, the terroir, the climate, the stage of ripeness at harvest, and the work done at the mill. The country of origin matters, but it doesn't tell the whole story.

French olive oils

French production offers very different profiles. Some oils evoke fresh grass, artichoke, or almond, with more or less pronounced bitterness and peppery sensation.

Others are rounder and reminiscent of ripe fruit. Some French specialties, made from olives ripened under controlled conditions before extraction, develop notes of black olive, tapenade, or forest floor.

A French oil is therefore not necessarily mild: it can be lively, vegetal, and very expressive.

Italian olive oils

Italy also has a great wealth of varieties and terroirs. You can find both delicate oils and powerful, bitter, and peppery oils.

Some oils from Tuscany or Puglia may have a strong vegetal character. Others, particularly those from certain varieties grown in Liguria, offer more delicate profiles. These are trends, not rules: two oils from the same region can be very different.

So, which one to choose?

There is no winning country. The best oil is the one that suits your taste and your dish.

For a mild salad, fish, or homemade mayonnaise, choose a delicate oil. For tomatoes, grilled vegetables, or a white bean soup, a more expressive oil will add depth.

"Extra virgin": what does it mean?

Extra virgin olive oil is obtained directly from olives by mechanical processes, without refining. It must meet precise chemical and sensory criteria, notably the absence of defects during tasting and the presence of fruitiness.

It is a good starting point for choosing an oil intended to be appreciated for its taste.

Virgin olive oil is also obtained by mechanical processes, but its classification criteria are different: it may, in particular, present slight sensory defects.

Finally, a bottle simply bearing the designation "olive oil", without "virgin" or "extra virgin", generally corresponds to a blend of refined olive oil and virgin olive oil. Its taste is often more neutral.

Warning: the acidity indicated on some bottles is not an acidity that we feel like that of lemon. It is a chemical indicator. On its own, a low acidity level is not enough to distinguish between two good oils.

First cold pressing or cold extraction?

These two expressions are often confused. Yet, they refer to different methods.

First cold pressing

This mention is reserved for oils obtained at less than 27 °C during a first mechanical pressing of the olive paste, with a traditional system of hydraulic presses.

It therefore describes a precise method. It is not a general formula meaning "best oil".

Cold extraction

Most modern mills extract the oil by centrifugation, rather than with a traditional press. The mention "cold extraction" then refers to an extraction carried out at less than 27 °C.

An oil extracted cold can be excellent without bearing the mention "first pressing".

The right reflex: do not focus on the word "pressing". The freshness of the olives, their condition at harvest, the speed of their processing, and the storage of the oil matter enormously.

Fruity, bitter, peppery: learning to recognize what you like

Fruitiness refers to the aromatic sensations reminiscent of olive and, depending on the oil, cut grass, tomato, almond, or other plants.

Bitterness can be surprising, but it is not necessarily a defect. It is notably present in certain oils from olives harvested while still green.

The peppery sensation, sometimes felt at the back of the throat, can also be a positive characteristic. An oil that "stings" slightly is therefore not necessarily too strong or of poor quality.

On the other hand, an odor of old nuts, cardboard, or old grease can indicate a rancid oil.

To discover your preferences, taste a small amount of oil alone, then on a piece of neutral bread or a warm potato. You will distinguish its aromas more easily.

Does color indicate quality?

No. A very green oil is not automatically better than a golden oil.

Color depends notably on the pigments naturally present in the olives, their variety, and their ripeness. It does not allow, on its own, to judge the quality, freshness, or intensity of the taste.

Choose with your nose and your palate, not just with your eyes.

Can you cook with extra virgin olive oil?

Yes. It is not reserved for salads.

It is suitable for many common cooking methods: vegetables in the pan, stews, fish in the oven, or cakes. As with any fat, avoid letting it smoke and overheating it.

To fully enjoy the aromas of a particularly fine oil, add a drizzle after cooking. Heat can dull certain nuances: there is no need to systematically use your most precious bottle for a long cooking process.

A simple organization consists of keeping two oils: a versatile one for cooking and a more expressive one for seasoning and finishing.

How to read the label?

First look at the category of the oil, then its origin.

An Italian brand or a French flag does not necessarily mean that the olives come from that country. Distinguish the origin of the olives and the oil from the simple place of packaging.

The AOP and IGP mentions correspond to a geographical origin governed by a set of specifications. They provide useful guidelines, without guaranteeing that an oil will please you more than another.

The organic label provides information about the method of production. It does not automatically mean that the oil is milder, fruitier, or better tasting.

If the harvest year is indicated, it provides interesting information about freshness. Do not confuse it with the bottling date or the best before date.

Properly storing your oil at home

Olive oil does not like light, heat, or prolonged contact with air.

Store it in a cupboard, away from the oven and stovetop. Close the bottle after use and prefer a dark glass or an opaque container.

Also choose a format suited to your consumption: a large bottle is only interesting if you use it regularly enough. Once opened, it is better to consume it in the following months, respecting the manufacturer's instructions.

Unlike wine, olive oil does not improve with age.

A few easy pairings to try

• On a tomato salad: a vegetal and slightly peppery oil.
• With white fish: a delicate oil, which accompanies without masking.
• On roasted vegetables: an oil with a more pronounced character.
• In a puree: a drizzle of fruity oil just before serving.
• In a lemon cake: a mild oil to replace part of the fat.
• On grilled bread: an expressive oil, simply, to discover all its personality.

Danielle REYNIER's advice

Do not look for an oil "perfect for everything". First look for the one you will enjoy using.

French or Italian, mild or intense, a good olive oil brings much more than a fat: it can become the seasoning that transforms a very simple dish. A ripe tomato, a slice of bread, a few vegetables, and a well-chosen drizzle are sometimes enough to make all the difference.